Cattle Panels:
The most useful trellis material that we have found are 16' x 50" cattle panels. They are strong and flexible, have holes large enough to put your hands through for harvesting and guiding the vines, and at $15 each are CHEAP for the value they bring to the garden. They can be bought at your local Tractor Supply, Lowes, etc. With a pair of bolt cutters they can be cut into custom sizes and shapes in minutes. If you don't have bolt cutters, ask the people where you buy them from and they will probably cut them for you.
In the picture above you can see three trellises. The rainbow shaped trellis on the left will support the spaghetti squash that you see in the wooden bed. If you have the space to do it, a curved design works better than a strictly vertical trellis as it gives the vine more solar exposure and more support for heavy fruits. If the vine is well supported by the trellis, it will usually be strong enough to support even heavy fruits. If the fruits do become too heavy, they can be supported with a sling made from breathable fabric such as old pantyhose.
Coming from a cinder block bed on the right of the picture, watermelon vines (personal sized variety) will grow up this arched trellis which connects to the spaghetti squash trellis. Spaghetti squash and watermelon vines grow particularly long (15-20 feet!!!) so full length 16' panels were used.
In the picture above you can see three trellises. The rainbow shaped trellis on the left will support the spaghetti squash that you see in the wooden bed. If you have the space to do it, a curved design works better than a strictly vertical trellis as it gives the vine more solar exposure and more support for heavy fruits. If the vine is well supported by the trellis, it will usually be strong enough to support even heavy fruits. If the fruits do become too heavy, they can be supported with a sling made from breathable fabric such as old pantyhose.
Coming from a cinder block bed on the right of the picture, watermelon vines (personal sized variety) will grow up this arched trellis which connects to the spaghetti squash trellis. Spaghetti squash and watermelon vines grow particularly long (15-20 feet!!!) so full length 16' panels were used.
Between the two wooden beds we created an arbor by bending a full length panel to fit. Green beans (pole beans) are planted in each bed and will climb up both sides of the arch. These vines and fruit weigh very little and just the stiffness of the bent panel will support them.
Due to space constraints in our garden area, our cucumbers are growing vertically on a half a cattle panel (8' tall) secured to two 8' tall t posts.
Due to space constraints in our garden area, our cucumbers are growing vertically on a half a cattle panel (8' tall) secured to two 8' tall t posts.
Green beans ready to grow up the trellis
Connecting the panels:
The spaghetti squash trellis is connected to the wooden bed with fencing staples at the bottom and at the top it is connected to the top of two t posts with electric fence wire. The watermelon trellis is up against the cinder block bed at the bottom and is secured to a t post with the electric fencing wire to keep it in place. At the top it it connected to the spaghetti squash trellis with electric fencing wire. While we are on the subject, electric fencing wire is marvelous stuff to have around the garden and home. It doesn't rust and is useful for a ton of things.
Tomato Cages:
The soil in our raised beds is so loose and friable that taller plants need support or they can fall over. Tomato cages aren't just for tomatoes. These cages completely surround the plants and provide good support for crops such as eggplants and peppers. There are many styles available, but we prefer the conical, premade type because they stack inside one another for easy storage through the winter. Hint: wire the cages together at the top with electric fencing wire to provide more stability. Many people have good luck with welded wire fencing rolled and wired together to form a cylinder. One method that we are thinking about experimenting with next year is the Florida weave. If anyone has any experience with this, let us know in the comments section.
Staking:
Almost anything can be used as a stake. Bamboo, premade plastic covered stakes, and wooden stakes are common. Put the stake in before planting to avoid damaging the plant's root system. As the plant grows tie it LOOSELY with a soft material to the stake. Strips of old pantyhose work great for this. Ensure that the stake is tall enough for the plant's final height and that it is in the ground deep enough to avoid toppling over during a wind storm.
I tried this last summer. I really liked it but have two warnings:
ReplyDelete1. Use twine that will not stretch too much. Otherwise, your plants will fall over anyway.
2. Leave plenty of space between rows! I did not and this made harvesting a weed control almost impossible!
I will definitely be using this method again this summer, but will be following my own advice for better management of my crop!
Oh bother... I forgot to mention that I was referring to the FLORIDA WEAVE in my comment above!!! Sorry!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tips! I'm definitely going to try it in one bed this year to see how I like the Florida weave. I've heard of other people having the twine stretching issue too. One other thing I've heard is to use UV resistant twine or the sun will weaken the twine to the breaking point just as the plants reach their largest size at the end of the season.
ReplyDeleteMaybe a modified Florida weave using a vertical steel cattle panel that's attached to steel posts might work?
Thanks for the tips! Excellent pictures...exactly what I needed to know :)
ReplyDeleteThanks for the encouragement!
ReplyDeleteI love this blog. Every time I come I get great ideas. And thanks for linking to us over on the right! I keep getting visitors from here and I truly appreciate it, neighbor.
ReplyDeleteThank you Joy!
ReplyDeleteI found 16 foot 4 gauge listed at Farm and Fleet but some of those trellis look a lot longer. Did you wire peices together or just found source for longer panels? I've been wanting to make a tunnel for squash forever that I could also take down for crop rotation and that doesn't take up so much space and this maybe the answer!
ReplyDeleteMine all started out at 16' too, though I used bolt cutters to shorten a few. I haven't lengthened any. At a farm I visited last month, they had made a nice tunnel by bending full length panels like my green bean arbor above and then then putting them in a row to form the tunnel. It was about 7' tall and 3' wide inside.
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