Electric Fencing

Last year we had some issues with deer in a customer's garden.  We started seeing strawberry plants and lettuces eaten down with hoof prints next to them in the uncompacted soil of the raised beds.  The garden is bordered by the house on the north, an 8 foot tall wooden fence on the east, and a 3 foot terrace and a chain-link fence on the south.  The west was open to the front yard where the deer would enter.  Moving the 8 foot tall wooden fence to encompass the garden would be ideal, but that was not an option.  We decided that an electric fence across this opening would be the cheapest and simplest option.  Electric fences provide a small shock to anything that completes the circuit between it and the ground, much like a static shock in the winter.  It's surprising, but causes no damage.  Since setting up the fence in the early Spring, we have had no sign of deer in the garden.

We purchased three fiberglass, step-in type electric fencing poles ($5), electric fencing wire ($10), a piece of 2 foot long re-bar ($1), a few feet of insulated electric fencing wire ($2), and a small (2 mile) electric fence charger ($20).

Total cost about $40 after tax.

Set up took 15 minutes.




Setting up the fence and charger:

1. Place the poles where the fence is desired and press them into the ground by stepping on the foot peg.  Don't have more than 8 feet between poles; less distance is okay.  
2. String the fence with electric fencing wire along the insulated clips, making sure that all wires are connected.  In our case, the distance was so short that we looped a single wire back and forth.  If fencing longer distances, a jumper wire between strings should be employed.  Also, if fencing a long distance, use a T-post and insulators every 4th post to make a sturdier fence.
3. Locate the fence charger in a semi-sheltered place.  They can take getting a little wet and dirty, but don't put it where it will get directly rained on.  In our case, we put it between the house and the raised asparagus bed, under the roof overhang. 
4. The charger has two posts, one marked "fence" and one marked "ground."  Using a length of the insulated wire, connect the "fence" post and the fence wire.
5. Drive the re-bar into the ground to serve as a ground rod.  Using a length of the insulated wire, connect the "ground" post and the re-bar.
6. Plug it in.  Ours has an indicator light that flashes as it sends a pulse through a properly set up fence. 

Tips and Tricks:

• Check that the charger is putting out by putting one hand in the dirt and using the other hand to lay a green blade of grass on the fence.  If the fence is hooked up properly, you should feel a slight buzz through the grass every few seconds as the fence pulses.
• Keep grass and weeds from growing through the fence.  They will ground it out and reduce its effectiveness.
• Get the fence up a few weeks before you have anything in the garden to protect.  We want the deer to be curious, sniff the fence, get a shock on the nose, and be trained that your garden isn't a fun place to be.  A deer can go right through it if there is enough temptation, so train the deer before your garden is in.
• If electricity isn't available where your garden is, get a solar fence charger.